Vegetable oils and their virtues.

Gebhard Sophie

The composition of oils will have an impact on their cosmetic properties and therefore on their uses.

At BeautyMix, we offer seven vegetable oils (sweet almond, hazelnut, sesame, argan, jojoba, hemp and oily carrot macerate) whose properties will be highlighted in this article. The comedogenic index will also be indicated in the table, with a result between 0 and 5: 0 being non-comedogenic and 5 being very comedogenic. A comedogenic oil will tend to clog the pores of the skin and therefore promote the appearance of pimples or blackheads.


This article will help you better understand which oil is right for you.

What is an oil? How is it obtained?

Oils are fatty substances composed of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids (with omega 3,6,9). Vegetable oil is therefore, by definition, immiscible in water or in alcohol, that is to say that it will not be able to dissolve in it. Depending on the temperature at which the oil will be stored, it may end up in its oil or butter state. The latter corresponds to a solid state.


An oil can be obtained by different processes which will have an impact on their final quality.


  • The first technique is cold pressing: after sorting, the fruits and seeds will be cold pressed, that is to say at room temperature, in order to obtain a vegetable oil of excellent quality since the oil which contains it. The result will be as pure as possible and will contain all of these essential nutrients.

  • The second technique is the mechanical press: the fruits will be crushed and heated a little. The resulting oil will be pure and will preserve all its dietary qualities. This is the most common method.

For oleaginous fruits, a centrifugation will be necessary in order to separate the oil from the pulp.


  • Finally, the last process encountered is the solvent extraction which is certainly profitable but which gives an oil of poor quality.

Besides oils, there are oily macerates on the cosmetic market: they are obtained by maceration of a plant in vegetable oil. Example of oily carrot macerate.

Odoo image et bloc de texte

What are vegetable oils made of?

  • The major constituent: fatty acids 

It is a fundamental molecule, a source of energy for humans. Fatty acids are mainly provided by food but can also be produced by our body. However, some fatty acids can only come from food since our body does not know how to synthesize them: these are the so-called "essential" fatty acids.

Among these fatty acids, we have saturated fatty acids, that is to say without double bonds, and unsaturated fatty acids which have double bonds.

In principle, oils rich in saturated fatty acids will be in solid form at room temperature: this is the case with Shea Butter.


There are different types of unsaturated fatty acids:


  • Mono unsaturated (a single double bond) otherwise known as omega 9

  • Poly unsaturated (several double bonds) otherwise called omega 3 and 6.

In the omega 3 family, we will focus here onlinolenic acid which is present in vegetable oils of cosmetic interest.

  • The other component of vegetable oils: unsaponifiables. 

These are components which will not be transformed into soap during a saponification reaction, that is to say a transformation of an oil into soap by adding soda.

These unsaponifiables, even if they are present in very small quantities (<1%), are nonetheless very effective and will be at the origin of the different properties of the oils:


  • Carotenoids: these are molecules responsible for the orange color of the oil and which give the skin a "healthy glow" effect. They are powerful natural antioxidants, regenerating the skin and are photo-protective.

  • Phytosterols, otherwise called "vegetable cholesterol": they have a healing, restorative and anti-inflammatory properties. They improve the barrier function of the skin and the microcirculation, slow down skin aging and protect against the action of UV rays.

  • Vitamin B: it protects and regenerates cells.

  • Vitamin C: this vitamin will accelerate the healing of the skin. It is found in rosehip or avocado oil.

  • Vitamin D: fairly well known since it is produced following exposure to the sun, it is useful for the proper functioning of the immune system.

  • Vitamin E (tocopherol): very antioxidant, it protects against cellular aging and is anti-inflammatory. It is strongly found in thehemp oil and thenuts oil. It will therefore be useful for skin prone to imperfections. 

  • Vitamin K: it is useful in the process of blood clotting.

  • The enzymes which will have an anti-aging action. They protect against aging of the skin induced in particular by free radicals. 

Texte Odoo et bloc d&#39;image
Odoo image et bloc de texte

Hazelnut oil


Fatty acid composition 

Very rich in w9 (omega 9), this oil strengthens the hydrolipidic film and has repairing and healing properties.

Composition "other"
  • Vitamin E: 40-50mg / 100g: natural antioxidant

  • Sterol content: 75 - 195 mg / 100g: healing and restorative action reducing inflammation.

  • Unsaponifiable content: 0.3 to 0.7%

Properties

  • Moisturizing, dry touch

  • Restructurante 

  • Anti oxidant

  • Its high content of unsaturated fatty acid results in a relatively fluid texture. It penetrates quickly and does not leave a greasy feeling.

  • It is recommended for sensitive skin.

Color Yellow
Conservation  Stable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comédogène index0

Hemp oil


Fatty acid composition

The richness in linoleic acid allows to create a protective barrier of the epidermis and to hydrate intensely.

It is one of the driest oils in cosmetics

Composition "other"

  • Vitamin E: 5 to 15 mg / 100g: natural antioxidant

  • Omega 3: 13 to 20%: moisturizing power giving suppleness to the skin and anti-inflammatory soothing redness and skin irritations

  • Phenols ≈ 50 mg / kg CoQ10 ≥ 70 mg / kg: anti-wrinkle and fine lines, antioxidant protecting against oxidative stress and therefore premature aging

Properties
  • Emollient

  • Moisturizing

  • Restructuring, anti-erythema

  • Used for sensitive, mature skin

Color Dark green
Conservation
In the refrigerator
Comédogène index0

 

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Odoo image et bloc de texte

Sweet almond oil

Fatty acid composition

Very rich in w9 (= omega 9), this oil strengthens the hydrolipidic film and has repairing and healing properties.

Composition "other"
  • Vitamin E: 40-60mg / 100g: natural antioxidant

  • Unsaponifiable content: 0.3-1.2%

  • Sterol content: 120-> 400mg / 100g: healing, anti-inflammatory and restorative action

Properties
  • Emollient

  • Moisturizing

  • Anti-oxidant

  • It is particularly recommended for babies

Color Yellow
ConservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comédogène index2

Argan oil


Fatty acid composition

Very rich in w9 (= omega 9), this oil strengthens the hydrolipidic film and has repairing and healing properties.

Composition "other"
  • Vitamin E: 2-10 mg / 100g: natural antioxidant

  • Gamma-tocopherol content ≥ 350 mg / kg: antioxidant and anti free radicals for the prevention of fine lines and wrinkles

  • Total sterol content ≥ 500 mg / 100 g: (including 40% α-spinaterol and 40% schottenol): Decrease skin aging and anti-inflammatory action

Properties
  • Moisturizing

  • Restructuring, regenerating

  • Anti oxidant, anti-aging

ColorYellow to brown
ConservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comédogène index0
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Odoo image et bloc de texte

Jojoba oil

 

Fatty acid composition
Composition "other"
  • Vitamin E: 2 - 4 mg / 100 g natural antioxidant

  • Esters of fatty acids ≥ 98% (waxes)

  • Of which: - ≈ 70% eicosenoic acid and - ≈ 15% docosenoic acid

Properties
  • Moisturizing, nourishing

  • Emollient

  • Restructuring, antioxidant

  • Balancing 

  • It is the oil that comes closest to the natural sebum of the skin. It is thus very useful for acne-prone skin and will tend to rebalance this sebum production.

Color Light yellow to yellow
ConservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comédogène index

0

Sesame oil


Fatty acid composition
Composition "other"
  • Vitamin E: 5 - 10 mg / 100g natural antioxidant

  • Sterol content: 500 - 650 mg / 100 g healing, anti-inflammatory and restorative action

  • Sesamin content ≈ 600 mg / 100 g

  • Sesamolin content ≈ 280 mg / 100 g

  • Sesamin and sesamolin are two natural antioxidants that make sesame oil particularly suitable for anti-aging cosmetic care.

  • Stable to oxidation, it can be used in all formulations for its moisturizing and restructuring properties.

Properties
  • Moisturizing, anti-drying

  • Restructuring, regenerating

  • Nourishing

  • Anti-aging, antioxidant

  • Ideal for dryness and irritation

ColorYellow
ConservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light.
Comédogène index1
Texte Odoo et bloc d&#39;image
Odoo image et bloc de texte

Carrot oily macerate


Fatty acid composition
Composition "other"
  • Vitamin E ≈ 40mg / 100g natural antioxidant

  • Total carotenoid content ≥ 1000 mg / kg

  • Of which: - 30-35% α-carotene

  • - 65-70% β-carotene

  • Protection against external aggressions such as pollution, the sun and allows cell renewal

Properties
  • Nourishing, softening

  • Regenerating

  • Anti oxidant

  • Emollient

  • Protection against sun damage, nourishes the skin and provides a tanned complexion

ColorOrange
ConservationStable vegetable oil. Store away from heat and direct light
Comédogène index1
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